install rear window in BMW Z3
How to install rear window in BMW Z3?—By rsnipes29512
Window is supposed to zip out and new one zip in: There is no zipper handle there. Do I need a special tool or have to take it to a dealer?
Best Answer —By brod
The parts package should inlcude the zipper handle, 2 pieces of clamps/locks, and a small plastic tool like a pointed spatula.
But while it can be done by a newbie, replacing the rear window
is not an easy job and certainly not for people who have little patience and manual dexterity. Usually you would need somebody to help position the new window at least until the zip process can be started, and also when pushing in and locking the clamps.
Start by removing the lock(s). Straighten the pointed ends and remove.
Then the old window can now be removed easily since the zipper would disengage even without the zipper handle.
Insert the handle in the convertible top portion of the zipper, then insert the initial portion of the new window side of the zipper into the handle (this would be both in the middle lower area of the window). Then pull the handle counter clockwise (if you are inside the car looking backwards).
One of the worst parts of doing this is due to the cramped space at the back..When both ends are zipped close then carefully insert the locks/stoppers into place without disengaging the zipper.
Have fun!
(1 votes, average: 5.00 out of 5)
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Comment by +1
Pyth on 11 May 2009:
Hi rsnipes,
You don't need a special tool, there is a zip around the window where the lining of the roof meets the glass. A small metal clasp holds the two ends of the zip.
Now, with the greatest respect I advise you take this to a dealer for two very good reasons……
1. There are an absolute bugger (x1000) to fit, I have seen experienced people struggle fitting them.
2. The BMW labour time is less than 30 minutes which means that it would not cost you much in the way of labour to get someone else to do it and have all the stress !!!!
Good luck, Pyth
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+1
Tom Reply:
October 5th, 2009 at 10:25 am
This is a followup to and thanks for brod’s post which was extremely helpful when I recently installed a Z3 convertible plastic rear window.
A few observations may help.
The window I replaced was factory BMW. It had no zipper head but was secured with one of the small metal clamps which comes with the replacement, which was also a BMW replacement part. The four prong clamp was installed outside to inside with the bent prongs of the clamp on the inside. The bent prongs are hard to see, but the clamp is easily removed from the outside with a small flat blade screwdriver after you pull back the outside rubber ring of the old window and expose the outside edge of the convertible top canvas. This ring may pull away from the old window but this is no problem since the replacement window comes with a new one installed. Once you pry the clamp off from the outside, which results in the four bent prongs on the inside straigtening out sufficiently to release, you can separate the zipper with your finger and run your finger around the entire circumference of the old window to release and easily remove it.
The replacement kit comes with the new window, of course, but it is very important to insure that it also has two new four prong clamps, each with a flat sort of washer with four holes through which the four prongs of the clamps are pushed after penetrating the canvas from the outside. I placed one clamp on either edge of where the new zipper connection overlaps once it is fully zipped.
This is definitely a two person job. To avoid the very cramped space inside the car, my helper and I started the new zipper connection from the outside, one of us on each side of the vehicle at the back of the convertible top. It is important to have one person align the old zippper half attached to the top and the zipper half attached to the replacement window. Just like zipping up a jacket, the zipper head (which comes with the repalcement kit) should be held with the end with two openings facing in the direction of the counterclockwise rotation (from the inside of the vehicle facing the rear) of the zipping-up process and that the beginning half inch or so of the zippers (this part has no zipper teeth) be slid through the corresponding slot in each of the two front leading holes. Alignment is essential. Once the zipper starts, one person holds the new window in alignment and the other goes inside the vehicle to complete the zipping up in the counterclockwise direction stated above. When you get the end (which is also the point where you started), there will be some over lap. On either end of this overlap is where the two clamps should be inserted to prevent the new zipper from separating. During the process of installing the clamps, care should be taken not to separate the zipper.
The kit should also contain a 3 inch (=/-) strip of rubber-like material about 1/2 inch wide with adhesive on both sides. This should go over the overlapped area of the zipper from the outside to help keep out the weather.
After that, the long white strips of adhesive covering on the new window along the edge of the black rubber ring should be removed to expose the adhesive weather stripping. Align the edge of the canvas top opening so that it is partially overlapping the rubber ring all the way around. The white plastic (spatula-like) tool is perfect for getting the canvas edge to fit into the channel of the rubber. Just lift a small portion of the lip of the rubber with your fingernail, insert the tip of the tool and slid it around the entire circumference of the window to insert the canvas into the channel of the rubber ring. You may have to push and pinch a little with your fingers to get it to go in evenly. It seemed to help that we did this installation on a hot day because the old weatherstripping was soft and came off easily. Good luck. Not bad with a little patience and a big effort at the beginning of the new zipping-up to maintain good alignment of the zipper halves. My old window had a wire-like metal stablizer at the top of the window only. I inserted it back by pushing it in with steady thrusts from one top edge all the way until it was fully in the rubber ring channel using the flat edge of the spatula tool to push the last few inches after I could no longer grip the remaining wire well enough to push.
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